This vintage knitting pattern for “Duckie Mittens” was published in the early 1940’s.
The mittens are knit flat on 2 needles using fingering weight wool. Each mitten features an intarsia duck on the back.
Sized to fit children from age 2 – 4 years.
Note: This pattern uses old UK needle sizes
Knitted on Two Needles
Materials
1 oz. of 4-ply Worsted Fingering Wool in main shade (Blue), a small ball of White Angora wool and a few yards of 4-ply wool in bright yellow for beaks and feet. 1 pair No. 12 knitting needles.
Measurements
To fit 2 to 4 years.
Tension
8 sts. to 1 inch.
Abbreviations
K. – knit
p. – purl
sts. – stitches
tog. – together
rep. – repeat
inc. – increase
dec. – decrease
beg. – beginning
rem. remains(ing)
cont. – continue
patt. – pattern
sl. – slip
p.s.s.o. – pass slipped stitch over
ins. – inches
m.1 – make 1 (by bringing or leaving the wool forward before a k. st. or winding the wool around the needle before a p. st.)
r.s.f. – right side facing
tbs. – through back of stitches
st.st. – stocking stitch (right side k. wrong side p.)
reverse st.st. – right side p. wrong side k.
R. H. – right hand
L. H. – left hand
moss st. – moss stitch (k.1 p.1 alternatively on an uneven number of stitches)
M. – main shade
L. light shade
D. – dark shade
A. – angora
Y. – yellow
d.c. – double crochet
R. H. MITTEN
Using M. wool, cast on 38 sts. and work in k. 1, p. 1 rib for 2 ins., inc. into every 6th st. on last row (44 sts.).
Now work 2 rows in st.st.
On the next row commence working from Fair Isle chart marked R. H. for the first 22 sts. on needle and also commence thumb gusset.
Each square represents 1 st. and the 22 sts. and 34 rows shown in the chart form the complete patt. for back of hand.
NOTE: Work all k. rows from right to left of chart and all p. rows from left to right. Always twist the wools at the juncture between the Fair Isle motif and the sts. of the background to obtain a neat finish to the work, but do not pull too tightly or a puckered effect will result. When commencing working with the angora wool it will be easier to work with 2 balls of M. shade (1 at each side of motif), and this will dispense with the necessity of carrying the wool across the motif at the back of work. Thus the next 14 rows will be worked as follows:
1st row: K. 9 M., 2 Y., 4 M., 1 Y., 6 M. (this completes chart), then cont. in M., k. 1, k. 3 times into next st., k. to end.
2nd row: P. 24 M., then work from chart–4 M., 3 Y., 2 M., 6.Y, 7 M.
3rd row: K. 8 M., 4 Y., 3 M., 4 Y., 3 M. (completes chart). Cont. in M., k. to end.
4th row: P. 24 M., then work from chart–2 M., 4 Y., 5 M., 1 Y., 10 M.
5th row: K. 10 M., 1 Y., 5 M., 1 Y., 5 M. (completes chart), cont. in M. k. 1, k. twice into next st., k. 1, k. twice into next st., k. to end.
6th row: K. 26 M., then work from chart–6 M., 1 Y., 4 M., 1 Y., 10 M.
7th row: K. 4 M., 4 A., 1 M., 7 A., 6 M. (Completes chart), cont. in M., k. to end.
8th row: P. 26 M., then work from chart–5 M., 16 A., 1 M.
9th row: K. 3 M., 15 A., 4 M. (completes chart), cont. in M., k. 1, k. twice into next st., k. 3, k. twice into next st., k. to end.
10th row: P. 28 M., then work from chart–4 M., 14 A., 4 M.
11th row: K. 5 M., 14 A., 3 M. (completes chart), k. to end in M.
12th row: P. 28 M., then work from chart– 3 M., 14 A., 5 M.
13th row: K. 6 M., 13 A., 3 M. (completes chart), k. 1, k. twice into next st., k 5, k. twice into next st., k. to end (52 sts. on needle).
14th row: P. 30 M., then work from chart–2 M., 13 A., 7 M.
THE THUMB: Patt. 22 as for 15th row of chart, then in M., k. 11, turn and cast on 1 st. P. back 11 sts., then turn and cast on 1 st. (12 sts.).
Cont. in M. on these 12 sts. for thumb for 12 rows.
Shape top by k. 2 tog. all along next row.
Break wool, thread through rem. sts. and sew down seam of thumb.
Next row: Rejoin wool with r.s.f. and pick up and k. 2 sts. from base of thumb, k. to end (44 sts.).
Next row: P. 22, then work 22 sts. as for 16th row of chart.
Cont. across all sts. keeping the chart for back of hand correct until the 34 rows of chart have been completed, thus ending with a p. row. NOTE: The eye may be worked in later.
SHAPE TOP: Cont. in M. only.
1st row: K. 1, k. 2 tog. t.b.s., k. 16, k. 2 tog., k. 2, k. 2 tog. t.b.s., k. 16 k. 2 tog., k. 1.
2nd and all alternate rows: P.
3rd row: K. 1, k. 2 tog. t.b.s., k. 14, k. 2 tog., k. 2, k. 2 tog. t.b.s., k. 14, k. 2 tog., k. 1.
5th row: K. 1, k. 2 tog. t.b.s., k. 12, k. 2 tog., k. 2, k. 2 tog. t.b.s., k. 12, k. 2 tog., k. 1.
7th row: K. 1, k. 2 tog. t.b.s., k. 10, k. 2 tog., k. 2, k. 2 tog. t.b.s,. k. 10, k. 2 tog., k. 1.
9th row: K. 1, k. 2 tog. t.b.s., k. 8, k. 2 tog., k. 2, k. 2 tog. t.b.s., k. 8, k. 2 tog, k. 1 (24 sts.).
10th row: P. 12 and turn.
Fold the work in half (right sides inside), and cast off from both needles together. Sew down seam of mitten.
L. H. MITTEN
Work as for R. H. to completion of ribbing and the 2 rows following (44 sts. on needle). Now work from the chart marked L. H. for the LAST 22 sts. on needle.
1st row: In M., k. 19, k. 3 times into next st., k. 2, then work from chart for next 22 sts.
Work 3 rows as now set, keeping the chart correct.
5th row: K. 19, k. twice into next st. k. 1, k. twice into next st., k. 2, then work from chart to end.
Work 3 rows as now set, keeping chart correct.
9th row: K. 19, k. twice into next st., k. 3, k. twice into next st., k. 2, work from chart to end.
Work 3 rows as now set, keeping the chart correct.
13th row: K. 19, k. twice into next st., k. 5, k. twice into next st., k. 2, work from chart to end (52 sts. on needle).
Work 1 more row.
THE THUMB (r.s.f.): K. 29, turn and cast on 1 st. Next row: P. 11 sts. back, turn and cast on 1 st.
Cont. on these 12 sts. for thumb as for R. H.
Rejoin wool, pick up 2 sts. from base of thumb, work to end of row.
Cont. as for R. H., but working from the chart marked L. H.
