Gwen Cardigan (Vintage)

Gwen, vintage striped cardigan

This pattern uses old UK needle sizes and fingering weight yarn.

This cardigan is referred to as a “coat” in the instructions. Many cardigans of this era (the early 1940’s) that were designed to be worn over a blouse were referred to as coats.

Materials

Patons Azalea Crochet and Knitting Wool
Quantities
– Light Grey – 5 ozs.
– Dark Grey – 2 ozs.
– Blue – 1 oz.

Knitting Needles – 1 pair No. 9

A small quantity of Cotton Wool.

Nine Buttons.

Measurements

Length from top of shoulder – 22 ins.
Width all round at underarm – 36 ins.
Length of sleeve from underarm – 6 1/2 ins.

Abbreviations

L = Light
D = Dark
B = Blue
K = knit
P = purl
wl. fwd. = wool forward (yarn over)
tog. = together

Tension

To get these measurements it is absolutely necessary to work at a tension to produce 7 1/2 stitches to the inch in with.

Note: Wind Light Grey Wool into five balls, and Dark Grey and Blue Wool into two balls each, as it is necessary to use a separate ball of wool for each stripe above the waistline, joining each stripe by twisting colour to be used, round, underneath, and to the right of colour just used.

The Right Front

Cast on 60 stitches in Dark Grey Wool and 6 stitches in Light Grey Wool.

1st row: K 6L, K 60D

2nd row: K 60D, K 6L

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows once.

5th row: K 2, wl. fwd., K 2 tog., K 1 in L, K 60D

Repeat 2nd row once, then 1st and 2nd rows six times.

Break off Dark Grey Wool.

19th row: Knit plain

20th row: K 1, purl to last 6 sts, K 6.

Repeat 19th and 20th rows three times.

27th row: K 3, wl. fwd., K 2 tog., knit plain to end of row.

Repeat 20th row once, then 19th and 20th rows seven times.

43rd row: K 6, join in Blue Wool, K 6, (K 2 tog, K 13) three times, K 2 tog., K 7.

44th row: K 1, P 55B, K 6L

45th row: K 6L, K 56B

Repeat 44th and 45th rows once, then 44th row once.

49th row: K 3, wl. fwd., k 2 tog., K 1L, K 56B.

Repeat 44th and 45th rows three times, then 44th row once.

Break off Blue Wool.

57 row: (K 12, K 2 tog.) four times, K 6

Repeat 20th row once, then 19th and 20th rows six times.

71st row: K 3, wl. fwd., (k 2 tog., K 4) nine times, K 1.

72nd row: K 1, P 11, (increase once in next st. purlways, P 3) eight times, K 6 (58 sts.)

73rd row: K 14, join in a ball of Blue Wool, K 10; join in another ball of Light Grey Woool, K 8; join in a ball of Dark

Grey Wool, K 10; join in another ball of Light Grey Wool, K 16.

74th row: K 1, P 15L, P 10D, P 8L, P 10B, P 8L, K 6L

75th row: K 14L, K 10 B, K 8L, K 10D, K 16L

Repeat 74th and 75th rows once, then 74th row once

79th row: K 14L, K 10B, K 8L, K 10D, K 13L, increase once in next st., K 2L

Keeping a border of 6 sts. in Garter Stitch at front edge and working in stripes until Yoke is reached, increase once at end of needle in every following 6th row (keeping all increased sts. in Light Grey), whilst at same time making a button-hole as before in 14th and every following 22nd row, until there are 68 sts on needle.

Work 24 rows without shaping, making a button-hole in 4th row.

In next row cast off 4 sts., work in pattern to end of row.

In following row K 3, wl. fwd., K 2 tog., work n pattern to last 3 sts., K 2 tog., K 1.

Decrease once at arm-hole edge in every row, until 59 sts. remain, then in every alternate row until 52 sts. remain.

Work 1 row.

Break off all balls of wool except first Light Grey Wool.

Continue in Light Grey Wool, work Yoke as follows:

1st row: (K 13, K 2 tog.) three times, K 7.

2nd row: K 1, purl to lst 6 sts., K 6.

3rd row: K 3, wl. fwd., K 2 tog., Knit plain to end of row.

4th row: k 1, purl to last 6 sts., K 6.

5th row: Knit plain.

6th row: K 1, purl to last 6 sts., K 6.

7th and 9th row: K 1, K 2 tog., Knit plain to end of row.

8th row: K 1, purl to last 5 sts., K 5.

10th row: K 1, purl to last 4 sts., K 4.

Break off Light Grey Wool.

Join in Dark Grey Wool.

11th and 13th row: K 1, K 2 tog., Knit plain to end of row.

12th row: K 1, purl to last 3 sts., K 3.

14th row: K 1, purl to last 2 sts., K 2.

15th row: K 1, K 2 tog., knit plain to end of row.

16th row: K 1, purl to last st., K 1.

Repeat 15th and 16th rows four times.

Break off Dark Grey Wool.

Join in Light Grey Wool.

Repeat 15th and 16th rows until 29 sts. remain.

Shape for shoulder as follows:

1st row: K 1, K 2 tog., knit plain to last 7 sts., turn

2nd and alternate rows: purl to laast st, K 1.

3rd row: Knit plain to last 14 sts., turn.

5th row: Knit plain to last 21 sts., turn.

7th row: Knit plain to end of row. Cast off

The Left Front

Work to correspond with Right Front, omitting button-holes and working border and shapings at opposite ends of needle.

The Back

Using Dark Grey Wool, cast on 122 stitches.

Work 18 rows in Garter Stitch.

Join in Light Grey Wool. Proceed as follows:

1st row: Knit plain

2nd row: K 1, purl to last st., K 1.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows eleven times.

Break off Light Grey Wool. Join in Blue Wool.

25th row: K 7, K 2 tog., (K 13, K 2 tog.) seven times, K 8.

Repeat 2nd row once, then 1st and 2nd row six times.

Break off Blue Wool. Join in Light Grey Wool.

39th row: K 7, K 2 tog., (K 12, K 2 tog.) seven times, K 7.

Repeat 2nd row once, then 1st and 2nd rows six times.

53rd row: K 7, K 2 tog., (K 4, K 2 tog.) fifteen times, K 7.

54th row: K 1, P 13, (increase once in next st. purlways, P 3) fifteen times, increase once in next st. P 14, K 1 (106 sts.)

55th row: K 16, join in a ball of Blue Wool, K 10B, join in a ball of Light Grey Wool, K 8; join in Dark Grey Wool, K 10;
join in another ball of Light Grey Wool, K 18; join in another ball of Dark Grey Wool, K 10; join in another ball of Light Grey Wool, K 8; join in another ball of Blue Wool, K 10; join in another ball of Light Grey Wool, K 16.

56th row: K 1L, P 15L, P 10B, P 8L, P 10D, P 18L, P 10D, P 8L, P 10B, P 15L, K 1L

57th row: K 16L, K 10B, K 8L, K 10D, K 18L, K 10D, K 8L, K 10B, K 16L

Repeat 56th and 57th rows once, then 56th row once.

61st row: K 1, increase once in next st. K 14 in L, K 10B, K 8L, K 10D, K 18L, K 10D, K 8L, K 10B, K 13L, increase once in next st., K 2 in L.

Continuing in stripes until yoke is reached, increase once at each end of needle in every following 6th row (keeping all increased sts in Light Grey panel), until there are 126 sts. on needle.

Work 23 rows without shaping.

Cast off 4 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows.

Decrease once at each end of needle in every row until 108 sts. remain, then in every alternate row, until 94 sts. remain, ending with a purl row.

Break off all balls of wool except first Light Grey Wool.

Continuing in Light Grey Wool, work Yoke as follows:

1st row: K 8 (K 2 tog., K 13) five times, K 2 tog., K 9

2nd row: K 1, purl to last st., K 1

3rd row: Knit plain.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows three times, then 2nd row once.

Break off Light Grey Wool.

Join in Dark Grey Wool.

Repeat 3rd row once, 2nd and 3rd rows six times, then 2nd row once.

Break off Dark Grey Wool.

Join in Light Grey Wool.

Repeat 3rd row once, 2nd and 3rd rows eight times, then 2nd row once.

Shape for shoulders as follows:

1st row: Knit plain to last 7 sts. turn

2nd row: Purl to last 7 sts., turn

3rd row: Knit plain to last 14 sts., turn

4th row: Purl to last 14 sts., turn

5th row: Knit plain to last 21 sts., turn

6th row: Purl to last 21 sts., turn

7th row: Knit plain to last 28 sts., turn

8th row: Purl to last 28 sts., turn

9th row: K 2 (K 2 tog., K 3) six times, knit plain to end of row. Cast off.

The Sleeves

Using Dark Grey Wool, cast on 60 stitches.

Work 18 rows in Garter Stitch.

Break off Dark Grey Wool.

Join in Light Grey Wool.

19th row: K 3, (increase once in next st., K 2) eighteen times, K 2 (78 sts.).

20th row: K 1, purl to last st., K 1.

21st row: Knit plain.

Repeat 20th and 21st rows, increaseing once at each end of needle in 4th and every following 6th row, until there are 88 sts. on needle.

Work 3 rows without shaping.

Break off Light Grey Wool. Join in Blue Wool.

Work 14 rows without shaping.

Break off Blue Wool. Join in Light Grey Wool.

Work 4 rows without shaping.

Cast off 1 st. at beginning of each of next 8 rows.

Proceed as follows:
1st row: Knit plain

2nd row: Purl to end of row.

3rd row: K 2 tog., knit plain to end of row.

4th row: K 2 tog., purl to end of row.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row four times, then 1st and 2nd rows once.

Break off Light Grey Wool. Join in Dark Grey Wool.

Repeat 3rd and 4th row six times.

Cast off 2 sts. at beginning of each of next 2 rows.

Break off Dark Grey Wool. Join in Light Grey Wool.

Cast off 2 sts. at beginning of each of next 12 rows.

In next row * K 2 tog., repeat from * to end of row.

Cast off.

The Collar

Right Half

Using Light Grey Wool cast on 28 stitches.

Work 2 rows in Garter Stitch.

3rd row: k 1, K 2 tog., knit plain to end of row.

4th row: Knit plain.

Repeat 3rd and 4th rows twice.

9th row: K 1, K 2 tog., knit plain to end of row.

10th row: K 6, purl to last st., K 1

Repeat 9th and 10th rows until 6 sts. remain.

Work 20 rows in Garter Stitch on remaining 6 sts.

Cast off.

Left Half

Using Light Grey Wool, cast on 28 stitches.

Work 2 rows in Garter stitch.

3rd row: Knit plain to last 3 sts., K 2 tog, K 1

4th row: Knit plain

Repeat 3rd and 4th rows twice

9th row: Knit plain to last 3 sts., K 2 tog., K 1

10th row: K 1, purl to last 6 sts., K 6

Repeat 9th and 10th rows until 6 sts. remain.

Work 20 rows in Garter Stitch on remaining 6 sts.

Cast off.

Shoulder Pads

Using Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply (or similar wool) and No. 9 Needles, cast on 12 sts.

1st row: Knit plain

2nd row: K 1, purl to last st., K 1

Continue working in plain, smooth fabric, increasing once at each end of needle in next and every alternate row, until there are 26 sts. on needle.

Work 9 rows without shaping.

Decrease once at each end of needle in every row until 12 sts. remain. Work 1 row without shaping.

Increase once at each end of needle in every row until there are 26 sts. on needle. Work 9 rows without shaping.

Decrease once at each end of needle in next and every alternate row until 12 sts. remain.

Work 2 rows without shaping.

Cast off.

Work another Shoulder Pad Covering in same manner.

Fold Shoulder Pad Covering in half and sew side edges together. Fill widest part of covering with cotton wool. Sew top edges together.

To Make Up Coat

With a slightly damp cloth and warm iron, press lightly.

Sew up side, shoulder and sleeve seams.

Sew in sleeves, placing seam to seam.

Sew collar pieces in position.

Join together bands from collar pieces and sew to back of neck.

Sew shoulder pads in position, with pads in sleeves and double-thicknesses along shoulder seams.

Sew on buttons to correspond with button holes.

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