US size 1 needles
sport weight yarn
Co 30 st
Work in k1, p1 rib for about 5 rows (this is about 1/2″ at my gauge)
Switch to stockinette stitch, knitting every row for another 1/2″
Now mark the 1st and 15th st. These are where you will increase 1 each side every other row for 6 times. (I usually will do my increase 1 st away from the marker on either side of the marker.) At this point, you should have 54 sts on your needles
When you get to that point, you will run a thread through 1/2 of the stitches on your needles starting at the 1st marker and going to the last (and use a thread, or you will have a ‘hole’) Now add 2 st and join the remaining stitches (you will place a marker between the 2 st for the inside center of the leg). Work around even (24 sts) until your pants
are the length is about 1/2″ short of what you want it. Do a textured stitch for 1/2″ to simulate a cuff and to keep the end of the leg from curling. Cast off in pattern.
Repeat for the other leg, except pick up sts from 1st leg when you begin. This will give you a straight legged pair of pants.
To taper the legs, *k4 rows, decrease on either side of center of inside of leg on the 5th row*. Repeat until the leg is as small as you want it.
On my ‘capri’ or ‘pedal pusher’ pants, I go to just the knee, then work back and forth in seed stitch for the ‘cuff’. Works good. If you want a better fit at the waist, thread a crocheted chain through, and you have a pair of pants that tie at the front.
Copyright 2001 Robley Brown. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org