Very Elegant Knitted Pelisse

Very Elegant Knitted Pelisse

From Exercises in Knitting by Cornelia Mee. Original text at Project Gutenberg.

Original Pattern

This may be made either smaller or larger by using finer or coarser wool and pins.

It is usually done in 4-thread fleecy, with coloured centre, and border to imitate ermine.

Cast on 270 stitches with white, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch the reversed way, knit 2 together, and repeat: every row is alike. Knit 24 rows with the white, then slip off 24 stitches at the beginning of the next row, and join the coloured wool, leave 24 stitches at the other end. These stitches are not required again till the centre is done, and are then knitted in white to form the border up the sides: this will leave 222, knit with these, with the coloured wool for 12 rows.

Next row:—Knit 27, bring the wool forward, slip 1, and instead of knitting only 2 together, knit 5 together: this decreases 1 rib. Knit to within 30 stitches of the end, decrease 1 rib as before, knit 13 rows, and decrease 1 rib at the beginning and end of the next row as before: each decreasing is done at the beginning of the row after knitting 27 stitches, and when within 30 of the end; knit 11 rows, and decrease 1 rib at each end of the next row; knit 13 rows, and decrease 1 rib at each end; knit 13 rows.

Next row:—Knit 27 stitches, decrease 1 rib; knit 6 stitches, decrease 1 rib; knit 6 stitches, decrease again; knit and repeat, decreasing after every 6 stitches, till 14 ribs are decreased; knit the 30 last stitches without decreasing; knit 24 rows without decreasing.

Next row:—Knit 27 stitches on to another needle, and knit them backwards and forwards for 42 rows: then cast off 3 stitches at the end nearest the centre, knit 2 rows, cast off 3 more stitches, knit 2 rows, and cast off 3 more stitches, till only 9 stitches are left, then cast off the 9 stitches; this completes 1 front, except the white, which will be mentioned below. The 27 last stitches are knitted in the same manner for the other front; then the stitches that remain for the back are knitted for 42 rows; then cast off 3 stitches at each end, knit 2 rows, and cast off 3 at each end, till you have cast off 18 at each end, knit 2 plain rows, and cast off the remainder of the stitches; then sew the shoulders very loosely, or it will contract them. The 24 stitches of white that were let off to another pin must be knit on each side the length of the front, and neatly sewed to it.

For the sleeves:—Cast on 66 stitches, and knit 78 rows: this is for the coloured part, and in sewing it together at the elbow, it must be rather tightened; and for the cuff, which is done in white, cast on 18 stitches and knit 66 rows, and sew it very nicely to the coloured part.

For the collar:—Cast on 120 stitches with white, knit 8 rows.

Next row:—Knit to within 12 stitches of the end, turn back, and knit to within 12 of the other end.

Next row:—Leave 6 more stitches at each end.

Next row:—Leave 24 stitches at each end, then 33, 39, 45, and 48 stitches, turning back between each as before, knit to the end of the row with white, join the coloured wool, knit 8 rows.

Next row:—Leave 12 stitches at the end, turn back, and leave the same number at the other end.

Next row:—Leave 18, then 24, 30, 36, and 42, at each end, then 2 rows of coloured, knitting the whole number of stitches, then cast off, and sew it to the neck.

A cord of tassels for the neck and waist, made of the white and coloured wool, to be added, and little tufts of black wool sewed into the white border at equal distances, completes this elegant pelisse.

Updated Version

You will need

500-600g yarn A in white (used for trim)
800g – 1kg yarn B in another colour (used for the main body of the pelisse.)
Small amount black yarn
3 straight knitting needles of the same size. (Alternatively, if you only have one pair in the size you need, you can use 1 pair of needles and 1 more large stitch holder or piece of scrap yarn of a different colour to A and B)
Measuring tape
2 stitch holders
Crochet hook
Piece of card (for making tassels)
Snips or scissors

You can change the size of the pelisse by changing your gauge using different sizes of needles and weights of yarn. The one in the sample was knitted using DK weight Aran and 5mm needles at a gauge of 5sts/in.

Abbreviations

CO – Cast on
BO – Bind off
yf – yarn forward
ssp – slip stitch purlwise
k2tog – knit 2 together
k5tog – knit 5 together
w&t – wrap and turn

Pattern stitch

yf, ssp, k2tog

The entire pelisse is knitted in this pattern stitch, so for the purpose of this pattern, “k” means “knit in pattern”.

Pelisse is knitted from the bottom up.

Body

CO 270 st with A.

Next row: *yf, ssp, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.
K 24 rows.

Next row: Slip 24sts on to a stitch holder. Join yarn B and k with B to last 24sts. Slip last 24sts on to a stitch holder. Turn.

Work even with remaining 222 stitches until work measures from your ankles to the bottom of your hip.

Next row: k27, yf, ssp, k5tog, k to last 30sts, yf, ssp, k5tog, k to end.

Work even for 13 rows.

Next row: k27, yf, ssp, k5tog, k to last 30sts, yf, ssp, k5tog, k to end.

Work even for 11 rows.

Next row: k27, yf, ssp, k5tog, k to last 30sts, yf, ssp, k5tog, k to end.

Work even for 13 rows.

Next row: k27, yf, ssp, k5tog, k to last 30sts, yf, ssp, k5tog, k to end.

Work even for 13 rows or until work reaches the bottom of your waist.

Next row: k27, yf, ssp, k5tog, *k6, yf, ssp, k5tog, rep from * to last 30sts, k to end.

Work even for 24 rows or until work reaches 1 ½ ins from underarm.

Front

Next row: k 27sts on to another needle of the same size.

Work even with these sts for 42 rows or until work reaches collarbone. Keep a tally of how many rows you knit, as you will need to match the other side.

BO 3sts at end nearest the centre of the work.

K 2 rows

Repeat until 9sts are left. BO 9 sts.

Repeat with first 27sts from other end of the work.

Back

Work even with remaining sts until the work matches the length of the fronts.

Next 2 rows: *BO 3sts, k to end.

Next 2 rows: k

Repeat from * six times.

Next 2 rows: k

BO remaining sts.

Sew top of each front to top of back to form shoulders.

Trim

Slip the 27sts from 1 stitch holder back on to needles.

Work even until it matches the front of the body and BO.

Sew trim and body together.

Repeat with 27 sts on other side.

Sleeves

Make 2 of each:

Top

With yarn B, CO 66sts. If this will not fit around the widest part of your upper arm, add sts in multiples of 3.
Work even for 78 rows or until work reaches from shoulder to elbow.

BO tightly.

Cuff

With yarn A, CO 18 sts. If this will not fit around the widest part of your forearm, add sts in multiples of 3.
Work even for 66 rows, or until work reaches from elbow to wrist and BO.

Sew one end of one cuff to one end of one top, gathering the top as needed.
Repeat for other sleeve.

Collar

With yarn A, CO 120 sts.

Work even for 8 rows.

Row 9 & 10: k to last 12 sts, w&t

Row 11 & 12: k to last 18 sts, w&t

Row 13 & 14: k to last 24 sts, w&t

Row 15 & 16: k to last 33 sts, w&t

Row 17 & 18: k to last 39 sts, w&t

Row 19 & 20: k to last 45 sts, w&t

Row 21 & 22: k to last 48 sts, w&t

Row 23 & 24: k to end.

Work even for 8 rows.

Row 33 & 34: k to last 12 sts, w&t

Row 35 & 36: k to last 18 sts, w&t

Row 37 & 38: k to last 24 sts, w&t

Row 39 & 40: k to last 30 sts, w&t

Row 41 & 42: k to last 36 sts, w&t

Row 43 & 44: k to last 42 sts, w&t

Row 45 & 46: k to end.

BO and sew BO side to neck.

Cords of tassels (optional)

Crochet one cord long enough to fit around your waist with some to spare, and another about 18 inches long to drape around the neck.

Make 7 large tassels and 12 small ones.

Attach 1 large tassel to each end of each cord.

Attach 1 large tassel to the middle of the cord you will be using as a belt.

Attach the other 2 large tassels and the 6 small ones at equal intervals along the belt.

Attach the remaining 6 small tassels at intervals of roughly 2 inches along the second cord and drape it around the neck of the pelisse under the collar.

If you prefer, you can add buttons, a zip or a belt to the pelisse instead of the belt of tassels to fasten it, or simply leave it unfastened.

Make little tufts of black wool and sew to white border and collar if desired.

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