Sock Monkey Socks

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Sock Monkey Socks

My photo shows these socks in plain brown ragg- you will have to imagine the red stripes and heels.

Materials

100 gm Mayflower Hit Parade in brown ragg, or another sock weight yarn- (must be brown ragg to get the Sock Monkey effect.)

Small amount of bright red sock weight yarn (maybe 2-3 yards) for top stripe.
If you want red heels, more red yarn will be needed.

Size 1 short double-pointed sock needles- set of 5 (I used 5" Brittany Birch needles), or whatever size needle you can get gauge on.

Gauge

8 stitches/ 1 inch

Pattern

This pattern makes an average woman's size sock. A Dutch heel is used, just because it's my favorite-fitting heel. If you want to add red heels to your socks, I suggest you do a short-row type heel, instead, using red yarn in place of the brown ragg for all heel sts.

Using red yarn, CO 60 sts.
Divide sts on 4 needles as follows:
12 sts on ndl 1, 16 sts on ndl 2, 16 sts on ndl 3, 16 sts on ndl 4.
Join to knit circularly, and rib in K2, P2 for 1 rnd.

Change to brown ragg yarn, and continue K2, P2 rib for 1".
Re-distribute sts so there are 15 sts on each needle.
Work in St st (knit every round) until the total length measures 5".

Heel Flap
Combine first 30 sts onto one needle for heel flap. Leave second and third needles of 15 sts each unworked until heel turn is completed. Using first 30 sts only, work back and forth in heel stitch, as follows:

*K1, Slip 1* to last 2 sts, K2, turn.
Purl across.

Repeat these 2 rows until heel flap measures 2 1/4", ending with a knit row,
turn.

Turn Heel
Note*- I like to continue slipping every other st on the knit rows, or every other round, until the insteps are fully decreased. This gives a nice, thick heel stitch *under* the heel, as well as behind it. If you do this, just be sure to keep your slipped stitches in line with the ones in the previous rows. If you have to fudge due to the decreasing, K2 between 2 slipped sts. Never sl 2 stitches in succession. (The following heel turn does not include which sts to slip, but feel free to continue slipping every other st on the knit rows, if you opt for the thicker heel.)

Still working on 30 heel sts, P17, P2tog, P1, turn (leaving remaining sts unworked on the needle).
Sl 1, K5, K2tog, K1, turn.
Purl to one st before the gap left on the last row (where you slipped a st), P2tog- (closing that gap), P1, turn.
K to one st before the gap, K2tog, K1, turn.

Continue in this manner until all stitches have been worked in the row, ending with a knit row.

Instep
Pick up 18 sts along left edge of heel flap, using the same needle heel sts are on.
Using a second needle, knit the first 15 sts of the sock front.
Using a third needle, knit the remaining 15 sts of the sock front.
With a fourth needle, pick up 18 sts along right edge of heel flap.
Knit the next 4 sts onto needle 4, with the 18 sts just picked up.

Now your sts are divided properly onto 4 needles for decreasing of the insteps.

Round 1:
K to last 3 sts on needle 1, K2tog, K1.
K across needles 2 and 3.
On needle 4, K1, SSK, K to end.

Round 2: K even

Continue alternating these 2 rounds - decreasing instep every other round - until you have decreased back down to 60 sts: 15 sts on each needle.

Foot
K even on 60 sts, until length from back of heel measures 7 1/2", (or the length of your foot, minus 2").

Toe
Needles 4 and 1 now hold the bottom of the sock, and needles 2 and 3 hold the top of the sock.

Dec Round 1:

Beginning with needle 4,
K1, SSK, K to end of needle.

Next needle, (#1)-
K to the last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.

Next needle, (#2)-
K1, SSK, K to end.

Next needle, (#3)-
K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.

Dec. Round 2:

K around- all 4 needles.

Repeat these two rounds until 24 sts are left (12 on sock top, 12 on sock bottom).
Weave the 12 front sts to the 12 back sts, using Kitchener St.

Repeat pattern for second sock.


Copyright 2001 by Bonnie Evans sewbizgirl@juno.com. Permission is given to use this pattern for personal and gift socks, including charity. This pattern may not be used for profit. All rights reserved. Used on knitting-and.com with permission.