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Lumber Jacket in Diamond Overcheck Design

Men's fitted cardigan with breast pockets and check design in reverse stocking stitch

Materials

17 Skeins (1 oz) Lincoln Mills “Daphne” Crochet Wool (used doubled), or alternately
17 Skeins (1 oz) Lincoln Mills Double Crepe “Waratah” Wool (used single)

1 pair each UK No 6/5mm/US 8 and UK No 8/4mm/US 6 knitting needles.

11 buttons.

Measurements

To fit 41 inch chest. Depth from shoulder, 22 inches. Sleeve seam, 21 inches.

Tension

(when pressed) 12 sts (l pattern) to 2½ inches. 12 rows (1 pattern) to 1¾ inches.

Note from Sarah: The original pattern says 12 sts (l pattern) to inches but this does not work with the finished size of the garment, the thickness of the yarn or the suggested needle size.

Pattern

Back

With No. 8 needles cast on 103 sts and work in ribbing K1, P1, for 24 rows (3 inches).

Change to No. 6 needles and begin pattern:

1st Row: Slip 1, K8, (P1, K11) to last 10 sts, P1, K9.

2nd Row: Slip 1, P7, (K1, P1, K1, P9) to last 11 sts, K1, P1, K1, P7, K1.

3rd Row: Slip 1, K6, (P1, K3, P1, K7) to end.

4th Row: Slip 1, (P5, K1) to end.

5th Row: Slip 1, (P1, K3, P1, K7) to last 6 sts, P1, K3, P1, K1

6th Row: Slip 1, P1, (K1, P1, K1, P9) to last 5 sts, (K1, P1) twice, K1.

7th Row: Slip 1, K2, (P1, K11) to last 4 sts, P1, K3.

8th Row: Same as 6th row.

9th Row: Same as 5th row.

10th Row: Same as 4th row.

11th Row: Same as 3rd row.

12th Row: Same a3 2nd row.

Continue to work the 12 rows of pattern, increasing each end of every 14th row until 111 sts.
When 70 rows (9¾ inches from ribbing) begin armhole.

Cast off 6 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows, when decrease each end of next and every 2nd row until 87 sts
remain.

Work without further decrease until 58 rows in armhole.

Cast off 10 sts at beginning of each of next 6 rows.

Cast off remaining sts

Before beginning Front have pocket flap ready.

Right Pocket Flap

With No. 6 needles cast on 22 sts

1st Row: Slip 1, P1, K7, P1, K3, P1, K8.

2nd Row: Slip 1, P8, K1, P1, K1, P9, K1.

3rd Row: Slip 1, K10, P1, K10.

4th Row: Slip 1, P8, K2tog, wool twice round needle, P2tog, purl to end.

5th Row: Slip 1, P1, K7, P1, K3, P1, K8.

6th Row: Slip 1, (K1, P5) 3 times, K1, P1, K1.

7th Row: Slip 1, K2, P1, K3, P1, K7, P1, K3, P1, K2.

8th Row: Slip 1, P2, K1, P1, K1, P9, K1, P1, K1, P3, K1.

9th Row: Slip 1, K4, P1, K11, P1, K4.

10th Row: Same as 8th row.

11th Row: Same as 7th row.

12th Row: Same as 5th row.

Leave on spare needle and finish off wool.

Right Front

With No. 8 needles cast on 57 sts and work in ribbing.

1st Row: Slip 1, K1, P1, to last 2 sts, K2.

2nd Row: Slip 1, P1, K1, to end.

Continue these 2 rows until 24 rows, then begin pattern row.

1st Row: With No. 8 needles slip 1, (K1, P1) 4 times, K1, slip these 10 sts on a thread and with No. 6 needles begin pattern (P1, K11) 3 times, P1, K10.

2nd Row: Slip 1, P8, (K1, P1, K1, P9) 3 times, K2.

3rd Row: Slip 1, K1, (P1, K7, P1, K3) 3 times, P1, knit to end.

4th Row: Slip 1, (K1, P5) to last 4 sts, K1, P2, K1.

Continue to work in pattern, increasing at beginning of every 14th row until 51 sts

When 71 rows from ribbing, begin armhole.

Cast off 6 sts at beginning of next row, then decrease at armhole edge every row until 37 sts, then work without further decrease until 17 rows in armhole, ending Front edge.

1st Row: Work 1st 7 sts, then piecing the pocket flap on top of jacket, work the sts on flap and the sts on jacket together.

Continue to work until 38 rows in armhole (ending armhole edge).

39th Row: Work back to last 3 sts. Leave these on a thread and finish the shoulder of Jacket, decreasing at neck edge every row until 30 sts remain.

Work without further decrease until 58 rows in armhole.

Cast off as for back.

With No. 8 needles continue to work the 10 sts at Front edge in ribbing for 128 rows. Cast off.

Before beginning Left Front have pocket flap worked.

Cast on 22 sts with No. 6 needles.

1st Row: Slip 1, K7, P1, K3, P1, K7, P1, K1.

2nd Row: Slip 1, P9, K1, P1, KJ, PS, K1.

3rd Row: Slip 1, K9, P1, K11.

4th Row: Slip 1, P8, P2tog, twist wool twice round needle, K2tog, P8, K1.

5th Row: Same as 1st row.

6th Row: Slip 1, K1, (K1, P5) 3 times, K2.

7th Row: Slip 1, K1, P1, K3, P1, K7, P1, K3, P1, K3.

8th Row: Slip 1, P3, K1, P1, K1, P9, K1, P1, K1, P2, K1

9th Row: Slip 1, K3, P1, K11, P1, knit to end.

10th Row: Same as 8th row.

11th Row: Same as 7th row.

12th Row: Same as 6th row.

Finish off wool and leave on spare needle.

Left Front

With No. 8 needles cast on 79 sts.

1st Row: Slip 1, P1, K1, to end.

2nd Row: Slip 1, K1, P1, t9 end.

3rd Row: Same as 1st row.

4th Row: Slip 1, K1, P1, K2tog, wool twice round needle, P2tog, continue in ribbing to end of row.

Work in ribbing until 23 rows, making another buttonhole at 20th row.

24th Row: Cast off 22 sts, work to end of row.

Change needles and begin pattern.

1st Row: Slip 1, K9, (P1, K11) 3 times, K1, slip remaining 10 sts on a thread and continue to work the pattern to correspond with Right Front until 70 rows from ribbing, then begin armhole and decrease as for Right Front and work on until l8th row of armhole, ending armhole edge.

19th Row: Work 1st 8 sts, then lay pocket flap on lop of work and knit the sts together as for Right Front. Then finish the remainder of Front to correspond with Right Front.

Join wool to 10 sts at centre and work the band in ribbing for 128 rows, making 7 buttonholes at 6th and every 20th row in this way. Slip 1, K1, P1, K2tog, wool twice round needle, P2tog, K1, P1, K1.

Sleeve

With No. 8 needles cast on 48 sts and work in ribbing, K1, P1, for 24 rows, increase 1 st every 5th st to 57 sts

Change to No. 6 needles and begin pattern.

1st Row: Slip 1, K9, (P1, K11) three times, P1, K10.

Now continue to work in pattern, increasing each end of every 10th row until 79 sts

When 112 rows from cuff, begin armhole.

Cast off 6 sts at beginning of each of next 2 rows, then decrease each end of next and every 4th row until 59 sts, then every 2nd row until 33 sts, then every row until 11 sts. Cast off.

Press work,  join shoulders, fit in sleeves,  join side and sleeve seams,  sew ribbing bands to Fronts of Jacket.

Collar

With No. 8 needles and beginning at 5th st. from edge of Left Front pick up and knit 100 sts round neck to 5th st. from edge of Right Front, and work in ribbing, K1, P1, increasing at each end of each row for 12 rows, then increase each end of every 2nd row until 29 rows in collar. Cast off loosely.

Pocket Patches

Work as for the pocket flaps, omitting the buttonholes and working for 34 rows.

Work 2 rows of double crochet round each pocket patch and sew in position on jacket.

Then work 2 rows of double crochet round the pocket flap.

Sew buttons in position on Right Front and on pockets.


The original publication of this pattern is in the public domain, however this updated digital version is copyright Sarah Bradberry, July 18th 2012. All rights reserved.