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Carefree, Vintage Jacket with Smocked Waist

Free Knitting Pattern for an early 1940's jacket with cabled waist shaping.

Materials

12 skeins "Wilga" blanket wool (worsted weight), shade No. 2138 (Red).

2 pairs Needles, old UK size Nos. 6 and 8 / US 8 and 6 / Metric 5mm and 4mm

7 Buttons.

1 Crochet Hook.

Gauge

5 sts and 6 rows per inch

Size

Length from top of shoulder 21½ inches.

Bust 32 /34 inches.

Length of sleeve seam 18 inches.

NOTE: For 36 inch bust, use old UK No. 4 / US 10 / Metric 6mm needles instead of old UK No. 6 / US 8 / Metric 5mm needles.

Pattern

Back

Using larger needles, cast on 74 sts. Work the next row into back of sts.

1st Row: P2, * K2, P2, repeat from * to end.

2nd Row: K2, * P2, K2, repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows for 5½ inches.

Change to smaller needles and work smocking as follows:

In words

1st Row: P2, * K6, P2, repeat from * to end.

2nd Row: K2, * P6, K2, repeat from * to end.

3rd Row: P2, * slip 3 sts. on a spare needle and leave in front of work, K3, K the 3 sts. from spare needle, P2, repeat from * to end.

4th Row: Repeat 2nd row.

5th Row: P2, K2, P2, * K6, P2, repeat from * to last 4 sts., K2, P2.

6th Row: K2, P2, K2, * P6, K2, repeat from * to last 4 sts., P2, K2.

7th Row: P2, K2, P2, * sl. 3 sts. on a spare needle and leave at back of work, K3, K the 3 sts. from spare needle, P2, repeat from * to last 4 sts., K2, P2.

8th Row: Repeat 6th row.

Charted

chart for the smocked section on Carefree, a vintage jacket with cabled waist detail

Repeat the last 8 rows for 2 inches.

Change to larger needles and work the 1st 2 rows of ribbing, increasing 1 st. each end of every 8th row until increased to 82 sts.

When work measures 15 inches shape armholes by casting off 4 sts. at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

K2tog each end of the next 4 rows.

When armholes measure 3½ inches, work the 8 rows of smocking pattern across all sts. for 3½ inches, then shape shoulders by casting off 7 sts. at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Cast off.

Left Front

Using larger needles, cast on 50 sts.

Work the 1st 2 rows of ribbing as for back for 5½ inches (working 1st row into back of sts).

Change to smaller needles and work the 8 rows of smocking pattern for 2 inches.

Change to larger needles and work in ribbing, increasing 1 st. at side seam edge every 8th row until increased to 54 sts.

When work measures 15 inches cast off 8 sts. at armhole edge of the next row.

K2tog at armhole edge of the next 4 rows.

When armhole measures 3½ inches work the 8 rows of smocking pattern across all sts. for 2 inches, them continuing
in pattern, cast off 13 sts. at neck edge of the next row.

K2tog at neck edge every row until decreased to 21 sts.

When armhole measures 7 inches shape shoulder by casting off 7 sts. at armhole edge every 2nd row 3 times.

Right Front

Work to correspond with left front, making buttonholes as follows:

1st one being when ¾ inch of smocking at waist has been worked and 6 more 2 inches apart.

Buttonholes

1st Row: Work 3 sts., cast off 2 sts., work to end of row.

2nd Row: Work to last 3 sts., cast on 2 sts., work 3 sts.

Sleeves

Using smaller needles, cast on 38 sts. Work the 2 rows of ribbing as for back for 3 inches (working 1st row into back of sts.).

Change to larger needles and continue in rib, increasing 1 st. each end of every 6th row until increased to 66 sts.

When sleeve seam measures 18 inches or required length, K2tog each end of every 2nd row until decreased to 42 sts.

Work the 8 rows of smocking pattern and continue to decrease every 2nd row until decreased to 34 sts.

When work measures 6 inches from 1st decrease cast off 8 sts., at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Work the remaining 18 sts. for 1½ inches. Cast off.

Stitch the cast off sts. to side of sts. worked for 1½ inches.

Shoulder Pads

Using larger needles cast on 16 sts. Work 16 rows st st.

Cast off. Fold in half, pad with cotton wool and sew up edges.

Finishing

Press with a warm iron and damp cloth.

Sew up seams, sew in sleeves and shoulder pads.

Work 2 rows of double crochet (US single crochet) around neck and down each front. Sew buttons on left front.


The original publication of this pattern is in the public domain, however, the updated text and charts presented here are copyright Sarah Bradberry, May 28th 2013. All rights reserved. You may not edit, email, publish, or distribute the contents of this page in any form without the prior permission of the copyright holder. If you would like to share the information on this page you may do so by giving the link to this page which is http://knitting-and.com/knitting/patterns/clothing/carefree.html