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Daydream Baby Layette

Knitting daydream baby layette with free knitting patterns

Materials

For the complete set: 11 ozs/310gm of 3-ply Baby Wool (a light fingering weight). You will probably need less if using acrylic.

Made separately: The Frock, 3½ ozs/100gms.;
The Coat, 4 ozs/115gms;
The Pilches, 2 ozs/60gms;
The Bonnet, 1 oz/28gms;
The Mittens, ½ oz/15gms;
The Bootees, ½ oz/15gms

1 pair of knitting needles each in Old UK Nos. 10 and 12 - US sizes 3 and 2 - Metric sizes 3.25mm and 2.75mm

A set of 4 double pointed knitting needles in Old UK Size 12, US Size 2 or metric size 2.75mm

A medium sized crochet hook.

13 small buttons. Ribbon as required.

Gauge and Size

8 sts and 10 rows to 1 inch using larger needles

To fit ages 6 to 9 months

Abbreviations

K, knit;
p, purl;
sts, stitches;
tog, together;
rep, repeat;
inc, increase;
dec, decrease,
beg, beginning;
rem, remains (ing);
cont, continue;
patt, pattern;
yo, yarn over (by bringing or leaving the wool forward before a k st, or winding the wool around the needle before a p st);
ins, inches;
tbs, through back of sts;
rsf, right side facing;
sl, slip;
psso, pass slipped st over;
moss st (K1, p1 alternately on an uneven number of sts, but when working over an even number always work a k st over a k st of the previous row);
stst, stocking stitch (right side k, wrong side p);
garter st, every row k;
dc, UK double crochet/US single crochet.

Pattern

The Frock

The Front: Using larger needles, cast on 143 sts and work in moss st for 10 rows.

Work 4 rows in stst.

Now work as follows: 1st row: K1, * yo, ssk, K12; rep from * until 2 sts rem, yo, k2tog.

2nd and alternate row: P.

3rd row: K2, * yo, ssk, k9, k2tog, yo, K1; rep. from * to last st., K1.

5th row: K3, * yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k3; rep from * to end.

7th row: K4, * yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k5; rep from * ending k4 .

9th row: K5, * yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k 7; rep from * ending k5.

11th row: K6, * yo, ssk, K1, k2tog, yo, k9; rep from * ending k6.

13th row: K7, * yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, K11; rep from * ending k7.

15th row: K8, * yo, k2tog , K12; rep from * ending k7.

16th row: P.

Rep these 16 rows once more.

Now cont rep the 15th and 16th rows until work measures 12 ins, ending with a p row.

Shape Armholes: Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows, then dec 1 st at both ends of the next 3 alternate rows (133 sts).

Work 3 rows without shaping, thus ending with a p row.

Now shape for yoke as follows (rsf):

1st and 2nd rows: Patt 45 sts, turn and work to end.

3rd and 4th rows: Patt 39 sts, turn and work to end.

5th and 6th rows: Patt 33 sts, turn and work to end.

Cont in this way, working 6 sts less before turning on every alternate row until the row Patt 3, turn and p to end have been completed.

Work 1 row across all sts.

Now shape the opposite side for yoke as follows: 1st and 2nd rows: P45 sts, turn and patt to end.

3rd and 4th rows: P39 sts, turn and patt to end.

Cont in this way until the shaping is completed, then p 1 row across all sts. Leave these sts on a spare needle until required, but please note that the work must end with a p row.

The Back: Work as for front until the piece measures 11 ins, ending with a p row.

Now Divide for Back Opening: Patt across 70 sts, k2tog , then turn and p to end. Cont on these 71 sts in patt until work measures 12 ins, ending with a p row.

Shape Armhole: Cast off 2 sts at beg of next row, then dec 1 st at armhole edge on the following 3 alternate rows (66 sts).

Work 11 rows without shaping, thus ending with a p row.

Now shape this side as shaping was worked at right side of front and break off wool.

Note: This shaping will end with a p row therefore no extra rows are required to finish shaping on wrong side.

Rejoin wool at centre back and work on these 71 sts to correspond with the opposite side, reversing all shapings.

Yoke shapings on this side will end on the right side, therefore work 1 p row across to centre back after shapings are completed.

Sleeves (both alike): Using smaller needles, cast on 41 sts and work 8 rows in moss st.

Next row: Change to larger needles and k8, then k twice into each of next 24 sts, k9 (65 sts)

Next row: P.

Now work in Patt as follows:
1st row: K4, * yo, k2tog , K12; rep from * until 5 sts rem, yo, k2tog, k3.

2nd row: P.

Rep these 2 rows until work measures 1¾ins, ending with a p row.

Shape Top: Keeping Patt correct, cast off 2 sts at beg of every row until 21 sts rem.

Note: When shaping is completed there should be 10 sts at each side of the centre made st. Leave on spare needles.

The Yoke: Using the set of double pointed needles and with wrong side of all pieces facing, work thus:

Commence at centre back, sl the sts for right side of back on to one needle, then the sts for one sleeve, then sl 8 sts off right side of front onto this same needle.

On to the 2nd needle sl all but 7 sts of front, then on to 3rd needle sl the 7 sts of front then the 2nd sleeve followed by the sts for left side of back (307 sts)

Rejoin wool at centre back and with rsf work as follows:

(k2tog , K1) twice, * yo, (k2tog) 7 times; rep from * until 7 sts rem, yo, (k2tog) twice, K1, k2tog, (177 sts).

Next row: Turn and p back.

Yoke Patt: 1st row: K2, * k2tog , yo, K1, yo, ssk, k3; rep from * ending K2.

2nd and every alternate row until the 10th row is completed: P.

3rd row: K1, * k2tog , yo, k3, yo, ssk, K1; rep from * to end.

5th row: k2tog, yo, * k5, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo; rep from * until 7 sts rem, k5, yo, k2tog.

7th row: k2tog , k6, * yo, k2tog, k5, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k6; rep from * until 9 sts rem, yo, k2tog , k5, k2tog (155 sts).

9th row: K7, * yo, k2tog, K12: rep from * ending with k6.

11th row: As the 9th row.

12th row: P2tog, p11, * p3 tog tbs, p 11; rep from * until 2 sts rem, p2tog (133 sts).

13th row: K6, * yo, k2tog, K10; rep from * until 7 sts rem, yo, k2tog, k5.

14th row: P.

Rep these last 2 rows once.

17th row: k2tog, k4, * yo, k2tog , k3, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k 4; rep from * until 7 sts rem, yo, k2tog , k3, k2tog (111sts).

18th row: P.

19th row: K5, * yo, k2tog , k8; rep from * until 6 sts rem, yo, k2tog, k4.

Rep these lo st 2 rows once.

22nd row: P2tog, p7, * p3tog tbs, p7; rep from * until 2 sts rem, p2tog (89 sts).

23rd row: K4, * yo, k2tog, k6; rep from * until 5 sts rem, yo, k2tog, k3.

24th row: P.

Rep these last 2 rows once.

27th row: k2tog , K2, * yo, k2tog , K1, sl 1, k2tog , psso, K2; rep from * until 5 sts rem, yo, k2tog , K1, k2tog (67 sts).

Next row: Cast off purlwise fairly loosely.

The Coat

The Back: Work as for back of frock but make it ¾ inch longer before commencing armhole shapings, and work 2 more rows on straight than for frock before commencing yoke shapings. Leave on spare needle when yoke shapings are completed.

Left Front: Using larger needles cast on 79 sts and work 10 rows in moss st.

Work 4 rows in stst, then work in Patt as for frock front but keeping 6 sts at end of needle in moss st as a border throughout. Thus the first 4 Patt rows will be worked as follows:

1st row: K1, * yo, ssk, K12; rep from * until 8 sts rem, yo, ssk, moss st 6.

2nd and alternate rows: Moss st 6, p to end.

3rd row: K2, * yo, ssk, k9, k2tog, yo, K1; rep from * until 7 sts rem, K1, moss st 6.

Cont in Patt (with the moss st border) as for front of frock until work measures same as for back of coat to armhole, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape armhole as for right hand side of back of frock (74 sts), then work 13 rows without shaping, thus ending with a p row.

Now work yoke shaping as for back of frock and leave sts on a spare needle.

Right Front: Work as for left front with the border and all shapings at opposite ends of work. Thus the first 4 patt rows will be worked as follows:

1st row: moss st 6, K1, * yo, ssk, K12; rep from * until 2 sts rem, yo, k2tog.

2nd and all alternate rows: P until 6 sts rem, moss st 6.

3rd row: Moss st 6, K2, * yo, ssk, k9, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Sleeves (both alike): Using smaller needles, cast on 35 sts and work 10 rows in moss st.

Change to larger needles and work next row thus: K2, then k twice into each of next 30 sts, k3 (65 sts).

Next row: P.

Now work in patt as for sleeve of frock until work measures 6½ ins.

Shape top as for shaping top of frock sleeve and leave on spare needles.

The Yoke: Now with the wrong side of all pieces facing, sl all sts for yoke onto a smaller needle in this fashion. Commence with the left front, sleeve, then the back, the second sleeve, then the right front (323 sts).

Rejoin wool to right front edge and work next row thus:

Using smaller needles, moss st 6, (k2tog) 4 times, * yo, (k2tog) 7 times; rep from * until 15 sts rem, yo, k3tog, (k2tog), 3 times, moss st 6 (189 sts).

Next row: Moss st 6, p to last 6 sts, moss st 6.

Yoke Patt: The yoke is worked as for frock yoke but with the addition of 6 sts in moss st as borders at both ends of work. Thus the first 4 rows will be worked as follows:

1st row: Moss st 6, K2, * k2tog, yo, K1, yo, ssk, k3; rep from * ending the last rep with K2, then moss st 6.

2nd and all alternate rows until the 10th row has been completed: Moss st 6, p until 6 sts rem, moss st 6.

3rd row: Moss st 3, cast off 2 (buttonhole), moss st 1, K1, * k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, K1; rep from * until 6 sts rem, moss st 6.

On the 4th row cast on 2 sts to replace those cast off for buttonhole.

Cont in yoke patt working the main sts as for corresponding rows on frock yoke (making 2 more buttonholes at intervals of 1 inch, the top one coming close to neck edge), until the 27th row has been completed (79 sts). Cast off purlwise.

The Pilches

The Back : Using larger needles, cast on 25 sts and work 4 rows in moss st.

Next row: Work buttonholes thus: Moss st 4, (yo, work 2tog, moss st 6) twice, yo, work 2tog, moss st 3.

Cont in moss st, casting on 3 sts at beg of every row until there are 79 sts on needle, then cast on 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows (87 sts)

Work 2 rows in stst.

Now work the 16 rows of the vandyke patt (once) as at beg of frock skirt, then cont rep the 15th and 16th rows until side seam measures 7 ins.

Shape the Back: (rsf) 1st and 2nd rows: Patt until 7 sts rem, turn and p back until 7 sts rem, turn.

3rd and 4th rows: Patt until 14 sts rem, turn and p back until 14 sts rem, turn.

5th and 6th rows: Patt until 21 sts rem, turn and p back until 21 sts rem, turn.

7th, 8th and 9th rows: Patt until 28 sts rem, turn and p back until 28 sts rem, turn and patt to end of row.

Now work 7 rows in K1, p 1 rib, beg end ending the 1st row with p1.

Make Ribbonholes: K1, * yo, k2tog, p1, k1; rep from * unti1 2 sts rem, yo, k2tog.

Work 5 more rows in rib, then cast off loosely in rib.

The Front: Using larger needles, cast on 31 sts and work 2 rows in moss st.

Cont in moss st casting on 3 sts at beg of every row until there are 79 sts on needle, then cast on 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows (87 sts).

Work 2 rows in stst.

Now work as for back of pilches until side seam measures 7 ins.

Work the ribbing and ribbonholes as for back and cast off loosely.

Leg Bands: Join the side seams.

Using smaller needles end with rsf, pick up and k 78 sts evenly around leg opening and work 6 rows in K1, p1 rib, making a buttonhole at the BEG of 4th row (right leg) thus; rib 4, yo, work 2tog, rib to end.

Cast off loosely in rib.

For left leg make buttonhole at END of 4th row thus: Rib until 5 sts rem, yo, work 2tog, rib 3.

The Bonnet

Using larger needles, cast on 87 sts and work 8 rows in moss st.

Now work 2 rows in stst.

Now work the 16 rows of vandyke patt (once) as at beg of frock skirt, then rep the 15th and 16th rows until work measures 4½ ins, ending with a p row.

Shape the Back: 1st row: K6, k2tog, * yo, sl 2 knitwise, K1, pass the sl sts over, k9, k2tog; rep from * until 9 sts rem, yo, sl 2, K1, pass sl sts over, k6.

2nd and all alternate rows: P.

3rd row: K7, * yo, k2tog, K10; rep from * until 8 sts rem, yo, k2tog, k6.

5th row: K5, k2tog, * yo, sl 2 knitwise, K1, pass sl sts over, k7, k2tog; rep from * until 8 sts rem, yo, sl 2, K1, pass sl sts over, k5.

7th row: K6, * yo, k2tog, k8; rep from * until 7 sts rem, yo, k2tog, k5.

9th row: K4, k2tog, * yo, sl 2 knitwise, K1, pass sl sts over, k5, k2tog; rep from * until 7 sts rem, yo, sl 2 knitwise, K1, pass sl sts over, k4.

11th row: k3, k2tog, * yo, sl 2 knitwise, K1, pass sl sts over, k3, k2tog; rep from * until 6 sts rem, yo, sl 2, K1, pass sl sts over, k3.

13th row: K2, k2tog, * yo, sl 2 knitwise, K1, pass sl sts over, K1, k2tog; rep from * until 5 sts rem, sl 2, K1, pass sl sts over, K2.

15th row: Sl 1, k2tog, psso, * yo, sl 2 knitwise, k2tog, pass sl sts over; rep from * to end.

16th row: P.

Break off wool, thread through rem sts and fasten off securely.

The Booties

Commence at the Foot : Using larger needles, cast on 41 sts.

1st and alternate rows: K.

2nd row: K1, inc into next st (by k twice into it), K17, inc, K1, inc, K17, inc, k1.

4th row: K1, inc, K19, inc, K1, inc, K19, inc, k1.

6th row: K1, inc, K21, inc, K1, inc, K21, inc, K1.

8th row: K1, inc, K23, inc, K1, inc, K23, inc, k1.

10th row: K1, inc, K25, inc, K1, inc, K25, inc, K1 (61 sts).

K 9 rows without shaping.

Commence Instep Shaping: 1st row: K35, k2tog, turn.

2nd row: Sl 1, p9, p2tog, turn.

3rd row: Sl 1, k9, k2tog, turn.

4th row: Sl 1, p9, p2tog, turn.

Rep the last 2 rows until the sts are reduced to 41, then turn and k to end of row.

Next row: (wrong side). P across all sts.

Make Ribbonholes: K1, * yo, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Work 3 rows in stst (next row p).

Now Work in a Vandyke Pattern as follows: 1st row: K4, * yo, k2tog, k6; rep from * ending k3 instead of 6.

2nd and all alternate rows: P.

3rd row: K2, * k2tog, yo, K1, yo, ssk, k3; rep from * ending K2.

5th row: K1, * k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1; rep from * to end.

7th row: k2tog, yo, * k5, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo; rep from * until 7 sts rem, k5, yo, k2tog.

9th row: K8, * yo, k2tog, k6; rep from * ending k7.

10th row: P.

11th row: K.

12th row: P.

Rep these 12 rows once more, then work 8 rows in moss st and cast off loosely purlwise. Make another bootee the same.

The Mittens

Using smaller needles, cast on 41 sts and work 8 rows in moss st.

Work 4 rows in stst, then work the 12 rows of vandyke patt as worked for the leg of bootee once.

Next row: Make ribbonholes : K1, * yo, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Next row: P, inc 1 st at end of row (42 sts).

Work 26 rows in stst.

Shape Top: 1st row: K1, ssk, K15, k2tog, K2, ssk, K15, k2tog, K1.

2nd and all alternate rows : P.

3rd row: K1, ssk, K13, k2tog, K2, ssk, K13, k2tog, k1.

5th row: K1, ssk, K11, k2tog, K2, ssk, K11, k2tog, k1.

7th row: K1, ssk, k9, K2 tog, K2, ssk, k9, k2tog, k1.

9th row: K1, ssk, k7, k2tog, K2, ssk, k7, k2tog, K1.

10th row: P 11, turn.

Fold the work in half, right sides inside and cast off from both needles together.

Make another mitten the same.

Finishing

Press work with a warm iron over a damp cloth, omitting the decreased edges at yoke of frock and coat.

The Frock

Join sleeve to armhole edges, then join sleeve and side seams in one operation.

Work a row of dc around neck and back opening,

then make 5 small loops down one side of opening,

then sew on buttons to fasten. Press seams.

The Coat

Join up seams in the same way as for frock.

Work a row of dc around neck edge. Sew on buttons. Press seams.

The Pilches

Press and sew on buttons at crutch.

Thread ribbonholes with ribbon or a crocheted chain.

The Bonnet

Join up back seam to within 4 ins. of front edges.

Work a row of dc along edges, then press and sew on ribbons.

The Bootees

Join up leg and foot seams.

Thread with ribbon or crocheted chains.

The Mittens

Join up seams. Press and thread with ribbon or crocheted chains.

To Make a Crocheted Chain: Using the wool double, work a length of chain long enough to thread through holes and tie in a bow. Thread through holes, then finish off ends with small tassels or pom-poms.


The original version of this pattern is in the public domain. However, this updated version with additional information for international and modern knitters is Copyright Sarah Bradberry, September 7th, 2103. All rights reserved. You may not edit, email, publish, or distribute the contents of this page in any form without the prior permission of the copyright holder. If you would like to share the information on this page you may do so by giving the link to this page which is http://www.knitting-and.com/knitting/patterns/baby/daydream.html